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puffing billy

Puffing Billy, Belgrave: Melbourne’s Iconic Steam Train

I reckon part of the fun of being a parent is that it’s an excuse to revisit childhood haunts with your own kids

I still remember my first trip on the Puffing Billy Railway as a child – the thrill of seeing the huge puffs of smoke from the steam train, the magnificent trees of Sherbrooke Forest and the rumble over the Monbulk Creek Trestle Bridge.

puffing billy
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

So I am really excited to have the opportunity to ride the Puffing Billy again, invited this time as an adult with two children in tow.

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Puffing Billy steam train in the Dandenong Ranges is one of Melbourne’s major tourist attractions and it’s a must-do for locals and tourists alike.

puffing billy
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Most people choose to travel the route between Belgrave and Lakeside / Emerald Lake Park. It’s also the most picturesque and well-known part of the track, allows a return trip back to Belgrave and takes 60 minutes one way (2 hours return).

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

You can choose to go further to Gembrook, which is approximately another 50 minutes away but the return trip takes 5 hours.

puffing billy
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Most Puffing Billy trains commence their journey from Belgrave, the headquarters of the railway. You purchase a ticket for a specific departure time in Belgrave and can return from Emerald on any scheduled train. It’s best to book ahead to avoid disappointment. 

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Happily, after a couple of years of hiatus, you can now ‘sit on the sill’s and dangle your legs out of Puffing Billy‘s open carriages! 

Nothing beats the ride through the towering forests, around bends, over bridges and streams, waving at passers-by, all the while sitting on the carriage sill as Puffing Billy steams gently along the tracks.

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Sitting on the sills is what makes a trip on the Puffing Billy experience more than just a steam train ride – it’s a moment that I remember as a child and I think my kids will remember too.  

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Note that children age 4 to 13 years must have an adult supervising (1 adult to 2 children max) within arms reach for safety reasons.

Children under 4 years are not permitted to sit on the sills – simply because they are too small and can slip out between the rails. Adults can sit on the sills too (and I highly recommend it). 

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
puffing billy

You can peek inside people’s backyards, look out for wildlife in the fern gullies and appreciate the views of Cardinia Reservoir.

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Emerald Lake Park

Emerald Lake Park offers serene picnic grounds, two cafes, a lake with paddleboats and even swimming in summer, two playgrounds and the Southern Hemisphere’s largest model railway display – the Emerald Lake Model Railway.

Emerald Lake Model Railway

The new state-of-the-art Lakeside Visitor Centre means that even on a rainy day you have somewhere to shelter, which was previously a failing of the Emerald Park experience if you were unlucky to encounter inclement weather.

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Inside there is an expansive cafe (with surprisingly good food!) a souvenir shop, a small historical exhibition and a function room.  

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

If the weather forecast is looking good I highly recommend pre-purchasing a picnic pack at the time you purchase your ticket. It’s packed and ready for you as soon as you arrive at the Lakeside ticket office, meaning that you don’t have to lug around your own picnic provisions or wait in line at the cafe with the rest of the passengers.

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

The adult picnic pack is $42 and feeds 2 people and the kids picnic pack is $39 also feeding 2 people. There is a great selection of healthy options and sweet treats and Lady AB describes it as a ‘lavish spread’. I am pleasantly surprised by the quantity and quality of the food! 

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Note Bookings for picnic packs close 24 hours prior to the day of travel.

puffing billy
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

We are able to nab a picnic table right by the lake with excellent views of the paddleboats and the water. 

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Puffing Billy often runs special family-friendly events such as A Day Out with Thomas in Spring and Autumn and Santa Specials in December.

Thomas the tank engine puffing billy

With A Day Out with Thomas Thomas the Tank engine pulls the train through a part of the Puffing Billy track from Gembrook to Emerald plus there are other family-friendly activities to enjoy at Gembrook. The Santa Specials feature face painting, a Little Elves play and create workshop,  Australian animal exhibition, Santa photos, gifts and a 60-minute return journey through the Dandenong Ranges.


Find Accommodation near Puffing Billy, Belgrave


Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas and is especially popular in summer, during school holidays, public holidays and weekends. As such, it’s best to book ahead to avoid disappointment – though note there are no refunds or exchanges generally on tickets. Buy your tickets to Puffing Billy here.

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

One final tip – bring a hat and sunscreen and one more layer than you think you’ll need! The Dandenong Ranges are generally a couple of degrees cooler than Melbourne and sitting in Puffing Billy’s open carriage for 2 hours is enough to chill anyone. We visit in September with average temperatures and are still cold with long pants, a jacket and a beanie!

Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px
Puffing Billy Railway Belgrave px

Tips for Puffing Billy:

  • Belgrave is 40km one hour east of Melbourne by car or coach. Belgrave station can also be accessed via train from Melbourne on the Belgrave line.
  • On popular days eg weekends, public holidays and school holidays it’s best to book your Puffing Billy tickets in advance to avoid disappointment. Buy your tickets to Puffing Billy here.
  • Return tickets can be pre-purchased, single journey tickets can only be purchased on the day of travel from one of the Station Booking Offices.
  • Children under 4 years not occupying a seat are free.
  • The terms of sale state that there are no refunds/exchanges. However, if you find you can’t make the booked date and let them know early enough you may be able to exchange to another date.
  • Arrive at the station at least 15 minutes before your scheduled train departure (Puffing Billy actually recommends allowing 45 minutes). Just because you have a ticket for a specific time does not necessarily mean that you’ll be able to board if you are late or the train is already full.
  • Belgrave, Menzies Creek, Emerald, Lakeside, Gembrook stations all have toilets. Belgrave, Lakeside and Emerald stations have parenting rooms.
  • Only folding/umbrella style prams or narrow prams can be accommodated through the narrow carriage doors;
  • The stop at Menzies Creek is only for about 15 minutes.
  • Menzies Creek and Emerald only offer one way trips from Belgrave. Lakeside / Emerald Lake Park and Gembrook offer return trips to and from Belgrave. You can choose any return journey time from Emerald or Gembrook to Belgrave.
  • Refreshment Rooms at main stations stock snacks, drinks and souvenirs.
  • Book ahead for popular events such as A Day Out with Thomas, which always books out months in advance.
  • Take sunscreen and hats and another layer for cooler weather as the temperature is a couple of degrees lower up in the Dandenong Ranges compared to Melbourne;
  • There is free parking at Belgrave near the station.

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This post contains affiliate links. If you book using the links there is no extra cost to you (and you get a discount!) and I earn a small commission that helps me to provide free, valuable and useful information for you! Thanks in advance – Joyce

cropped Kristyna Hess Lockdown Portraits x

Joyce Watts is a former intellectual property, IT and media lawyer turned serial entrepreneur.

As well as being the founder of TOT: HOT OR NOT she helps businesses with their SEO, email marketing & social media as BrightSmart.com.au; she owns an online bike store CycleStyle.com.au and develops and produces creative experiences for families via WheelieGoodFun.com. She used to publish another popular lifestyle and food blog called MEL: HOT OR NOT The decisive guide to Melbourne.

She lives in inner-city Melbourne with her husband, two children and seven bikes.

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